Throttle Frequency allows you to adjust how aggressive the throttle on your ESC reacts. Lower values provide a more aggressive feel and higher values provide a more mild feel. This setting can be used to fine-tune the feel you’re looking for on different surfaces.

Default is 6kHz with a range of 2-12kHz available. Lower values are great for stock classes and higher traction surfaces, 5-8kHz are great for most modified and 1/8 electric setups on all surfaces. 9-12kHz soften the low end of the throttle up and can help out if you drive more nitro style.

Throttle Frequency can only be adjusted via HotWire.


Verify your sensors are working properly quickly and easily on your Tekin brushless ESC! If you ever feel like the ESC is running in sensorless, you can quickly check the sensors using the LED bar. With the ESC powered on and sitting in neutral, watch LEDs 5, 6 & 7 at the right hand side and each will light up as each sensor is hit.

ESC Error Codes –


Push Control allows you to set some artificial coast to help “push” the car when you let off throttle and go to neutral. It does the exact opposite of Drag Brake, so rather than apply brakes the ESC will keep throttle on and fade to zero throttle so long as you stay in neutral. This can help eliminate drive train drag and assist with entering corners and carrying more momentum everywhere on the track. This setting is most beneficial for stock classes.

Push Control can only be adjust with the HotWire, so plugging in or connecting via Bluetooth is necessary to adjust this setting.


Brake Minimum adjusts the minimum amount of brake the ESC will apply to the motor as soon as trigger brakes are engaged. The higher the value set, the stronger the initial brake power will be. This will also move where full brakes are at on the trigger, so if a setting higher than 0 is used, 100% brake signal is reached before 100% trigger throw.

Brake Minimum can only be adjusted with the HotWire, so plugging in or connecting via Bluetooth is necessary to adjust this setting.


RPM Brake allows you to set a different brake strength that works off of the motor RPM. This setting adjusts your “slow speed” or “infield brake” power. First you’ll set your normal Brake Strength for high speed areas of the track, so set them how you want them for braking on the straight and for corners at the end of high speed sections. Then you can use RPM brake to increase braking strength at slow speeds, if necessary.

If your car is perfect braking from high speeds, but seems to lack brake strength at slower speeds, like in the infield in tight sections, you can turn RPM Brake up to increase the slow speed brake power.

RPM Brake can only be adjust with the HotWire, so plugging in or connecting via Bluetooth is necessary to adjust this setting.


Active Brake or Active Braking is another brake adjustment available on the RS SPEC, RS GEN3, RSX Pro, RS Pro BE and RS Pro 1S. Active Brake lets you set a strong brake pulse when quickly snapping to full trigger brakes. Normal application of the brakes will not trigger this setting. The default is OFF and the higher the setting, the stronger the Active Brakes will be.

We found this to be very beneficial at the end of the straightaway when the motor is at a very high RPM and it can also help with jumping, like needing to bring the nose of the car down quickly. It can only be adjusted with the HotWire, so plugging in or connecting via Bluetooth is necessary to adjust this setting.


Brake strength adjusts the amount of trigger brake the ESC will apply to the motor. There are 1-13 steps available using the onboard QuickTune system, with each step being about 8% brake strength. You can also fine tune the brake strength via the HotWire at a higher resolution of adjustment, with 0-100% steps available.

Brakes are extremely important and you need to adjust them appropriately. Track surface, moisture content, tires and car will all come into play when setting brakes. Typically a good brake strength is going to be 80% or less. I find myself setting even as far down as 55% at times, which really helps me not over brake and carry more speed.


Drag Brake – Drag Brake also known as coast brake or auto brake is braking power applied by the ESC anytime the ESC sees a valid neutral signal from the transmitter. The higher the value, the more drag brake is applied. You can adjust Drag Brake with the onboard QuickTune LED and button setup or via the HotWire. Onboard you have 0-13 steps of Drag Brake and through the HotWire you have 0-100.

You can also set up the Aux Drag Brake and adjust 1-10 steps of Drag Brake using a spare channel and three position switch on your radio. Very handy for Rock Crawling!


We’ve gone nitro! I decided to finally after two and a half decades get into the fuel-burning side of RC. I have always liked nitro and watching the nitro mains is exciting for sure, dare I say a little more so than watching triple A Electric mains. Both are fun, both are exhilarating in their own unique ways but I can definitely see how the sound and strategy of racing with pit stops attracts gear heads. Being a gear head myself since I was a toddler, I think I’ll fit right in with this nitro business.

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Let’s talk shims! Shimming. No, it’s not a dance move, I’m talking about positioning the rotor in your brushless motor and limiting its lateral movement using shims. Shims are included with your Tekin GEN4 motor and the rotor has already been shimmed at the factory. It’s not always perfect, so like gapping your spark plugs (yes you should) even though they are pre-gapped, you should shim your rotor (yes you should) even though it is pre-shimmed.

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